Travel writer and photographer Kim Conley

Playa del Carmen: The new Mexican Beach Chic destination.
Story and Photographs by Kim Conley

The last time I went to Playa del Carmen was 1994.In that time and space Playa was nothing more than a sleepy little Mexican beach town just south of Cancun, where one might spend an afternoon snorkeling or diving if you were the adventurous type or at the very least splayed out in some hammock with a margarita in your hand enjoying the sights and sounds of that beautiful Caribbean Sea! It possesses a most hypnotizing hue of turquoise indeed. Point being, good as all of that was, that was all there was to do in Playa back then. When the sun would set, it was your cue to load um up and head em out back to Cancun or Cozumel.

The Beach in Playa del Carmen lines with fishing boats each morning.
Photo by Kim Conley

But things have certainly changed! Playa del Carmen no more holds the "Day Trip" status it did once upon a time. Oh no sireeee! What we have here now is a very hip and trendy, sleek and stylish, might I even use the word "chicest" of Mexican vacation destinations that one can possibly find themselves!Playa del Carmen is full of high end gourmet restaurants of every ethnicity and boasts quite a night life filled to the brim with bars and clubs behind every other door around each and every corner. And not just your ordinary, run of the mill bars... I mean uber sexy bars with couches and beds and people smoking hukas and swings and pretty people everywhere! Kinda like Mexico's version of South Beach..... but exotic!

Playa del Carmen finds itself located in the area of Mexico that has recently been dubbed "The Mayan Riviera". I find Playa to be the heartbeat of this Riviera. There is so much energy in this little town. You can hear it calling your name from the airport in Cancun! There are endless options of hotels and condos to call home during your visit here. I popped into many of them during my recent stay and I was completely blown away by the architectural design of the buildings themselves as well as the interiors and furnishings inside!Everything from classically Mexican design to very contemporary and modern minimalist. Something to suit any and everyone's taste! And then there is 5th Street, the main drag.Every evening this half-mile long stroll-only street is full of non stop people watching, window shopping, eating, drinking and being merry until you find yourself several hours later with no more money, one too many bags to carry, a little tipsy from the days' heat and one too many tequila's and a little too full from that last piece of yummy seafood you just had to put in your mouth because it was just too good to leave sitting on your dinner plate! So what do you do? Make your way back to your lovely hotel room to recover and regroup and with the sunrise of a new day, You too will muster the strength to begin again! Pyramids on the beach? Only in Tulum.
Just down the road from Playa there's a historical gem and likely where the next booming resort explosion will take place! Just about a forty minute ride away, Tulum is now what Playa was in the days of yore. This is one of those places you better find your way to pretty quick if you want to have an idea of living a life in all of it's glorious simplicity! Life the way Nature herself intended . Before the high rise hotels and the fancy restaurants, and the nic nac stands and the endless trail of tourists. Where the wind and the sea and the movement of the trees make up the sound scapes ..Where big prehistoric lizards stand guard over their precious Tulum, protecting her secrets, keeping her safe from the ever encroaching outside world.
                                               

Visitors stroll the quiet beaches of Tulum. Photo by Kim Conley
The development that IS taking place seems to be setting itself apart from the majority of developing Mexico by maintaining the noble pursuit in the preservation of all things "green". There seems to be a lot more of the tree hugger mentality here which provides quite a stark and refreshing contrast from places like Playa and Cancun. These ruins are noticeably smaller than Chichenitza which I talk about a little later, but they sit on the ocean and have a picturesque quality that creates a stand out effect!Tulum also offers a little trolly ride to the actual ruin site that is very appreciated by all of us tourists trekking it through the heat. Lots of the accommodations here are more in the way of palapas (thatched roof huts) with no a/c. Some also only have electricity a few hours a day. But what they lack in amenities they more than make up for with the gorgeous untouched, unspoiled natural beauty that is Tulum. Tulum pulls at my heart strings. Even now as I write this story to you, dear reader. Tulum is like a favorite song that keeps playing in my head. On my next trip to this part of Mexico it is here that I will be staying!

World Heritage site Chichen Itza also nearby.
There are several archaeological sites on the Mayan Riviera. The two most notable being Tulum and Chichen Itza. Chichen Itza has recently been added to the UNESCO World Heritage sites which is wonderful because that guarantees it's care and maintenance for years to come. The downside is that unlike just a few years ago, now there is zero access to the structures that used to be open to human foot paths. Wonderful for maintaining the integrity of the sight. Bad for people like me who love the up close and personal for my picture taking addiction! This sight is truly amazing and completely worth the visit (only a four dollar eight cent entrance fee)!

"El Castillo" (The Castle) is the main attraction to Chichen Itza, Mexico. Photo by Kim Conley
It is a sprawling complex that exemplifies how truly advanced the Mayan people were! Last but not least are the countless cenotes that dot their way along the Mayan Riviera's path. Cenotes are underground rivers that have occasional above ground entrances . They can come complete with stalactites and stalagmites and all other kinds of amazement! You can snorkel in them, scuba dive in them, rappel down into them. They are magical, beautiful places that many also consider to be sacred.

The future is so bright you better bring shades!
The soft buying power of the American dollar isn't really a bad thing to this region. The rise of the Euro buying power brings lots of Europeans and Asian visitors fond of this region keep money pumping in daily! As tourism's frantic pace continues so development, and at a record pace. But despite the growth, the charm is still very much alive. The Mayan Riviera is a vividly colored , richly textured tapestry of sights and sounds and gastronomical delights that give us a glimpse and a taste of the amazing history of this beautiful country and her beautiful people! Playa del Carmen, Mexico is a place I come back to again and again, both awake and asleep (in my dreams). This region has a piece of my heart. It also gets pretty large chunks of my money on a somewhat regular basis! I will not wait another fourteen years to come back...that's for sure. VIVA PLAYA!!!!!

Kim Conley is a freelance writer, photographer and associate television producer who has contributed to Stone Magazine, Hooligan TV and National Geographic Channel. She lives on Lake Travis near Austin, Texas and has traveled extensively especially to Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean. 

                                    
                                     Mazatlan: Mexico's Pacific Pearl Shines Brightly Again
                                     By Kim Conley

The shine may have worn off for a couple of decades since the heyday in the mid- 1980's, but today, Mazatlan, known as "The Pearl of the Pacific" of Mexican beaches, is recovering much of its luster. Aside from being a popular stop for several West coast cruise lines, it's also known as an affordable deep sea fishing destination popular with Mexican vacationers.

This 250 year-old Mexican city is nestled snuggly between the Pacific Ocean and the Sierra Madre Mountains, a few hours north of Puerto Vallarta and directly across the Gulf of California from Cabo San Lucas. Although it is often lumped in with these two beach resort destinations, Mazatlan's charm is unique. While certainly a part of the "Mexican Riviera," its laid-back yet adventurous personality is all its own.

It's hard to put into words the charm and beauty of this city. Throughout the years, Mazatlan has somehow managed to remain one of the few family destinations left in Mexico that is still "under the radar." That translates into bargain prices and relatively good weather outside of the hot summer months. It's a balanced family destination where adults will enjoy great restaurants, theatre, arts and culture, while children will enjoy the beach, street performers and nighttime family entertainment.

Balloon salesmen, food carts and musicians stroll up and down Mazatlan's waterfront, making it a charming year-round destination. Although the majority of visitors come to Mazatlan from January through April, there is much to do in the other months as well. Public beaches abound, luring families, surfers, parasailers, jet skiers and street performers alike. Local merchants sound their whistles and peddle their crafts, divers show off their bravery jumping off boulders into the open waters, and gorgeous old statues grace the Malecon immortalizing everything from mermaids to "pulmonias," the popular open air modified taxi cars. Restaurants also abound, from "Senor Frogs" at the south end of the Malecon to the north tip of the marina where Coco Loco's quench thirsty travelers at the restaurant "Las Brujas".

Mazatlan's locals are friendly to foreign tourists, and in fact, even embrace them. Maybe it's because tourism isn't necessarily a priority. That's part of what separates Mazatlan from other resort cities. Less emphasis on tourism keeps prices lower than in places like Cancun, Acapulco or Puerto Vallarta, but that, my friends, is rapidly changing.

For those families that enjoy fishing, one of the attractions will definitely be deep sea fishing with the kids. Starting at around $350 a day, families can rent a staffed 28-foot fishing vessel for several hours. It's one of the most affordable prices you'll ever find for this level of sport fishing anywhere in the world.

Horse lovers will enjoy a nice ride on the beach with "Ginger's Bilingual Horses" located north of the marina right next to "Las Brujas" restaurant. Guided tours for adults and children cost about $25 an hour per horse for a 6-hour ride. This is a great bargain, considering that's just over $4 an hour for a guided tour.

For those traveling with teenage children, the annual spring "Carnaval" might be enjoyable experience. The Latin version

of the American Mardi Gras focuses more on costumes, music, and floats and less on heavy drinking and partying. This annual spring event is one of the largest in all of Mexico and a true cultural experience. 

                                   
                                    Historic Mazatlan
For those families that enjoy visual arts and architecture, The Centro Historico downtown is undergoing a complete makeover. Walk along the historical district and you'll think you stepped back 200 years. Mazatlan is in the beginning stages of a revival of sorts. Recently declared a historical zone by the government, most of the 200 year-old buildings are being restored to their original opulence. The five-year historical restoration plan to be completed near 2012 has already made a huge difference. Investors are quickly buying old structures, gutting them, and restoring them to their old glory.

Spend one weekend in the beautiful Plaza Machado in the Centro Historico or take a stroll with your family down the Malecon and you'll quickly see the importance the locals place on "family". On weekends, the Machado fills with musicians, jewelry merchants and artists, and all sides of the Plaza are closed off to cars. Restaurants cover the old roads with tables, straw chairs and colorful umbrellas create a warmly embracing environment reminiscent of old Paris, Mexico style. Music often plays late into the evening as visitors eat and drink while children play chase and dance to traditional music. It is a true cultural experience.

One of the central focal points of central Mazatlan is the Angela Peralta Theater, with quite a colorful history of its own. The theater is a spectacular facility that hosts plays and performances weekly at reasonable prices. It's a great option for families looking for that rare mix of beach, history and the arts, all in one destination. Overall, historic downtown Mazatlan is an eye-catching beauty of an old Mexican town, with stimulating colors, textures and rich architectural lines. It is a true photographer's dream.The Golden Zone to the north, there is the "The Golden Zone," an area full of hotels and restaurants catering to tourists. There is no shortage of steak houses and other fine dining restaurants around here. Thousands of trinkets and Mexican keepsakes can be found around this area along with fine jewelry stores and other specialty shops. Unfortunately, most of Mazatlan's tourists spend most of their time in this part of the city as most of the "major brand" hotels are here. Don't get me wrong, there's nothing wrong with staying in the "Zone." Just make sure you spend at least one day exploring the historical side of town and the southern part of the Malecon.Stone Island
Stone Island is just a short, inexpensive ferry ride away from the city. The island's main attraction is its miles of undeveloped beaches that are particularly enjoyable on horseback. Enjoy open air restaurants serving fresh seafood and have a siesta in woven hammocks rocking ever so gently in the wind. One of the region's top resorts is located here. The "Estrella del Mar" (The Sea Star) Golf and Beach Resort is a true luxury facility, with a world-class golf course and a beautiful spa perfect for indulgent traveler.

                                          Mazatlan's Booming Popularity
A real estate development boom is also beginning in Mazatlan, as this Pacific Coast city seems to be transforming into a major travel destination. Many structures around the Malecon that are still remaining from the prior real estate boom in the 1980's are slowly being replaced by modern, shiny, taller, trendier condominium towers and businesses as investors from around the world have taken notice of this little known Mexican gem. North of the city, past the Golden Zone, another bubble of development is bursting as developers are buying up large chunks of land and building waterfront condos, luxury homes and marinas. With prices starting around $200,000, new prime ocean view condominiums are still affordable, but they are expected to rise significantly in the coming years as Mazatlan's popularity increases. Chances are that this city's skyline will also change dramatically and Mazatlan will become a household name like Cancun or Cabo. Now is the time to discover this beautiful place.